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It's purpose is to hold the playfield securely, but still allowing it to be rotated 360 degrees (to flip back and forth between top and bottom surface). This is true both of shopping an existing pin, and creating one from scratch. While not a necessity, it makes populating a playfield much easier (both top and the bottom wiring and mechanics). It is a bit that creates a locking edge between cabinet corners. Easier than using the router.įor cabinet building, a table router with Locking Mitre bits.
#Pinball nes keypad layout plus
You should also have sand paper in various grits ranging from 180 up to 320, plus finer grits for final polishing.įorstner bits for drilling clean holes. If cost is an issue, you can make your own from common hardware store parts.īeyond the standard hand tools needed to create a machine from scratch, here are some additional tools:Ī Hand Router for creating insert and device holes in the playfield.Ī Table Jigsaw for cutting playfield plastics, or plexi for your initial whitewood inserts.Ī Hand Sander to level the playfield. If space is at a premium, there are smaller tabletop versions as well. The above example is available from Harbor Freight. Blow Torch - MAP Gas works best, Propane as a second choiceĪ Metal Brake is useful for bending sheet steel to make brackets.A bunch of different size C-clamps - at least one large and two big enough to clamp large items.Flap disc grinding pads of multiple grits.
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So to play SMB you have to basically crane your hand over the second row of buttons.
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But I found the other buttons get in the way when you have B and A as the top-left most buttons. Especially if most of yours games only used 2-4 buttons.Īgreed about B and A being the most used and in that order because of NES. The B and A buttons being used the most so they are the closest to you. Now I think the layout posted would be what I would expect when playing on a new Arcade cabinet I've never played on before and probably the most natural for me. Said in Arcade Buttons - How Many? Layout?:
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